Here I am. the irony of growing up and living in a coastal town, loving the ocean. Being able to ‘carve it up’ on a snowboard, but surf. no 😆 I’ve always said “I like the idea, but have never been persistent. Its really hard to learn. It’s takes to much energy. All that hard work paddling, only to get thrown into the drink. And have to do it all again. So exhausting.” The greatest irony, and metaphor for how life feels at times. Those words. I’m now in my 40th year. I love